Sunday, which would normally be a day off, the whole Stumptown gang spent the day practicing and perfecting different brewing methods. Zachary invested a lot of time to improve our consistency for brewing by weighing our water. The gram itself is based on a metric unit of water, so 1ml= 1g... So we can zero our scale after applying the Clever or Aeropress and coffee, and make the perfect cup with great repeatability. It's so reasonable and basic.
So we just drank soo much perfect coffee and played with brewing different coffees multiple ways, including some Square Mile Coffee that the crew brang for us on their visit Friday, while I was bed-ridden. The coffee was complex and memorable, even through my clouded sick palate.
That day I had to admit to myself that I have a big bias towards acidity. I love an overdosed, low-volume chemex of Burundi Kinyovu or a brighter Central American coffee... but that's not what is most balanced or appealing.
Monday's cafe shift flew by. It was the morning of the Dutch Barista finals, so many coffee people were in town from Belgium and outside of Amsterdam. There were so many great people and fun conversations. I finished at 2 and dashed into the Cuyp market for tons of fruit, and then Zachary and I trammed it to Central station, caught the ferry across, um, a canal.. and then were greeted by a beautiful sailor-costumed girl who pointed us toward a smaller boat which took us to the competition venue. This man steered the boat. I don't think I'll ever get tired of all these beautiful, austere Dutch people.
The competition was truly great. I honestly didn't expect the level of expertise to be as high as it seemed. I only wish I understood Dutch better so that I could have understood more of the presentations, but the cognates for flavors were plentiful! I caught the jist of most competitors and took down some notes of my impressions. Here are just a few thoughts:
For the ten finalists (which is different in that US competition has only 6 finalists... but we also have regional competitions prior to our national event) there was only 1 flight of judges (and half of them had been in to our cafe the day of or prior!) For this reason, I assume, there were spit cups. I understand forsaking the fuller gustatory experience.. they'd each have consumed 30 shots by the end!
The machines were 2 group lineas, with 1mm groupjets, from the look of it. It makes sense, since that is the stock specification, but I was still surprised nonetheless. Many of the espressos seemed to drop so quickly!
At least 5 of the competitors used a washed Ethiopian SOE, or blends with Ethiopians as the dominant component. The competitor from Illy, who won, used a Sidamo for his espressos, and a blend of Yirgacheffe, Brazil and Costa Rican coffees for his capps and sig. The new champ (who will compete in Colombia next year) was Yakup Aydin. This guy seemed like a crowd favorite. I was told he had competed for a couple of years, but things always went wrong in his past presentations, like last year when he served his sig drink without espresso! He was cracking jokes before his comp time and seemed at ease and professional. His signature drink's presentation was pretty incredible.. I snapped some photos of the empty glasses afterwards.
As you can see, his espresso (with raw javanese palm sugar and chocolate cream expressed by whip container, fresh grated lime zest on top) was served in the top glass, which had a pointed base like a broken martini glass. It rested in a round glass with a display of the ingredients: Lemongrass, lime (candied slivers), chcolate and beans.
Most everybody had minimal elegant presentations, and nothing seemed too over-the-top.
Sander, the 2009-2010 Dutch champ, had a digital photo frame showing scenes of his coffee's farm, I believe, as well as a complicated sig drink with dry ice and 13 drops of passion fruit to compliment his coffee.
There was a wide array of cold-holding jackets and devises for milk.
Frans van den Berg was the youngest competitor at 15 years old! I loved his miniature waste can. He was shaky but sure of himself as he poured 4 perfect tulips. He was one of several competitors who observed a ladies-first order of pouring waters, which is different than what's encouraged in America.
Some competitors were not leveling, some were. At least 3 people did this leveling where they "patted" the coffee while vaguely scooting it into a mound without eliminating any. I do dislike this. After 6 years of being a trainer, I've reached a point in my coffee-etiquette OCD where improper or nonsensical techniques, like crazy tapping or improperly stretching milk, cause a visceral reaction in me: I actually get nauseous seeing it...But anyway..
Most espressos were served two at a time, same with capps
At least 3 of the competitors worked with professional assistance. Sander worked with a chef to develop his signature, and Yakup and third place, Kunst, both trained with a man named Yost.
The biggest difference between US competitions and Holland's came with the announcement of the finalists. These girls -
(please note their headbands of beans!) were the greeters at the competition and were part of the final ceremonies. All the judges, the runner Jonatan (a sweet coffee lover), and the competitors received boquets of flowers and kisses (cheek-cheek) from these gals.There are so many things we Americans can learn from the Dutch. We should perhaps start by having a slower pace of life, more cheap fresh produce and socialized health care, but we should work our way up to flowers and kisses for everybody!
One other noticeable difference was the presence of alcohol. The venue had a bar, and after a few competitors, folks began drinking beer. There was at least 1o minutes between competitors at times, and the event stretched from 3pm until almost 9 (15:00-21:00 actually.) But no one was trashed or rowdy. People were behaved. In America, these events are always separate from drinking, but I feel everyone races from the competition to the parties or bars. Perhaps if we were to be less conservative in some respects, we could have a society capable of better moderation.
I should mention that I got to meet Kees van der Wessen, the designer of the espresso machines we use in our cafes. I was so star-struck I stammered out a shy introduction and was too embarassed to ask for a photo! It's nice to feel like a silly little girl sometimes. I don't know if he meets many people who get as choked up and awkward as I did. I hope he received it as a compliment.
In this cold grey weather, yesterday and today were not as busy in the cafe, though there were still plenty of new faces and return customers. Tuesday is my day to host the 13:00 cupping and 14:00 brewing demo. Yesterday a coffee and tea professional came with his family, and so just he and I played for that while, just chatting and nerding out. Getting to have so many quality interactions with awesome members of the Holland coffee community is such a treat. I look forward to fostering even more coffee community in Utrecht this weekend at what I can only call a barista-jam type series of events.
I should be out dancing at the Midnight Juggernauts show right now, but as I was getting all dolled up, I made the right decision to stay out of the cold tonight. I'm still under the weather but almost recovered.
Stuffy noses are the worst. When I can't smell or taste, it feels like the world is lost to me. It robs me of the joys of coffee and my generally hedonistic life. My friend Maki put it best once, saying that she and I are "mouth people." I live to eat and drink, and am happy to have my senses returning.
I will eat and drink my way through Amsterdam and Utrecht soon.
One of my next stops, besides fab cafes: formocha.nl
A salon, whose owner imports fine chinese oolong teas and serves them gong-fu style! An awesome tip from a coffee friend.
ta ta for now
Snakes mark a canal bridge near our apartment
Outside the cafe at night, when the busy market has banished. The garbage strike has been happening for a little while now, so the streets are littered and becoming fragrant.
Great post. It seem you saw every little detail!
ReplyDeleteNice to meet you yesterday, loved the espresso's you served us. When you'll come to Utrecht you'll have to come to the place I work, brandmeester's.
Hopefully, we'll see eachother soon! :)